Ethiopian woman
Leaving Axum, we had a dusty 10 hour ride to go only 150 miles up into the Simien Mountains. A significant portion had been nicely paved by the Chinese (they are everywhere in Africa) but there still must have been hundreds of switchbacks during the drive as our van (luggage tied on top and covered with two tarps to protect from the dust) climbed slowly for hours. During the drive, camels and donkeys far outnumbered motorized vehicles of any size. We passed high school girls in their way to school, each carrying the ubiquitous yellow plastic water jug.
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Tuktuks, called bajajs here, crowd the streets of towns and villages, dodging goats and donkeys. Many are simply blue and white, but those that are individually owned are colorfully personalized.
Tuktuk
It has been stressed, repeatedly, the emphasis the government puts on education. It is mandatory, but most kids seem to go a half day—so they can help their family, was the explanation. High school used to be 12 years but is now 10, at which time it is decided if a child will go to a trade school or university. If the latter, the government decides your area of study, because “they know best what type of skills the country needs.” Apparently, after a three year curriculum, you can continue with a study of your choice. For example, our guide was trained to be a teacher. Then he studied tourism. Cost? About $3000 total. The exception - to this and much else, I’m learning - is in the tribal south where I will spend the last several days of this trip.
Families work their land (owned by the government) where the terraced, rocky, dusty fields yield sorghum ( for honey and beer), barley, and teff, a grass with an edible seed. As we drive further north, the lack of trees means cooking is done over charcoal.
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Fields
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Terraced Fields
Outside the cities, housing is basic with stone benches, outdoor cooking and simple houses, some with thatched roofs but most with the ever prevalent corrugated tin.
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Woman cooking
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Outdoor cooking
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Round house with thatched roof
The traditions and mores of the Ethiopian Orthodox are strong. Not once ever did I see a woman wearing pants. No one, regardless of big city or countryside, smoked. And chat, an addictive stimulant common in the East and which is exported to Yemen and Djibouti and Somalia, does not seem to be an issue among the a Orthodox. Controlling chat production is a challenge for the government since a kilo of coffee sells for $15 and a kilo of chat for $75.The town outside the entrance to the Simien National Park is crowded with outfitters and a market
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Market scene
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Young girl
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Men at sewing machines
Like towns of all sizes, from the capital of Addis to the smallest village, there is an outdoor foosball table!
Boys playing foosball
Many in this village were displaced from their land when the park was established “to protect the wildlife.” A few remain, but many have established homes in this crowded little town not far from the Eritrean border. As a way to provide employment...and MAYBE for protection from the occasional leopard (guard said he’d never seen or heard of one) or hyena...one gun-toting “guard” must accompany every five tourists.
Speaking of guns, there is a voluntary military, all of whom are given guns. And in small towns where there is no police, “the government gives a gun to a responsible person.”
Man on road with gun and pitchfork - note his shoes
On the road north, we drove past a refugee camp for Eritreans. Since gaining its independence in the early ‘90s, the people have suffered under a harsh regime that mandates compulsory inscription in national military under conditions that human-rights groups have called slavery-like with torture and sexual abuse. Many escaped to Ethiopia. The peace agreement signed in 2018 between the two countries was intended to revive trade and historical ties. But progress stalled and Eritrea has again closed its borders. Those who escape across the harsh terrain stay in refugee camps or move to the capital to seek work, competing with the many young Ethiopians also looking for jobs.
Eritrean refugee camp
The highlight of my time in Simien National Park, besides enjoying the spectacular views and cool air, was the opportunity to see the Gelada baboons. These grass-eating guys are found nowhere else in the world but in the Ethiopian highlands.
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
Geladas, also called the bleeding heart baboon for the bright red patch on their chest, are ruled by the women! The smallest “family” group may have a dozen or more females, all related: sisters, aunts, daughters, cousins. They choose which male will be the lucky guy to join their group and become their sexual partner. There may be other males in the group, but the females will only mate with the chosen one. The females also choose when to mate, rather than the male forcing himself on her. He maintains his relationship with all the females through grooming ...keeping her happy and pretty!
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
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Gelada baboons
Geladas are unique for their strong fingers used for scaling the sheer rock faces of the Semien mountains. Hyenas are their primary predator so nights are spent sleeping on tiny little ledges on the cliffs.
The other highlight while at the lodge - at nearly 11,000 feet, the highest in Africa! - was the mystery of power. No regular schedule. When I inquired of the staff, I was told “maybe before 10pm. Maybe after.” ...pause...”We will see.” And so, either dusty dirty or after a cold shower in these chilly mountains, it will be off to Gondar and the Timkat festival, my last stop in the north.
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