Bibi-Khanym Mosque - Samarkand - UNESCO World Heritage Site
And so I begin this final chapter of my journey along the Silk Road in Uzbekistan.
As those of you who’ve read some of my previous blogs may remember, there is a moment in every trip when I am overwhelmed with something…a sight, an experience…and realize I will never pass this way again. I try to hold on to that moment and its memory. Seeing Uzbekistan's incredible 700 year old tiled architecture softly lit at night was that moment for me. The glazed blue and turquoise mosaics sparkle in the light. The patterns on the minarets are almost dizzying.
The scale of these buildings is impossible to describe. Some, like this mosque, originally the largest in all of Central Asia, are so large that they were beyond the capabilities of architects and builders of their time. Not long after completion, tiles began to fall on worshippers!
This and the madrasas of Registan square were built by a king and successful military commander, Timur, who conquered Central Asia, Persia, Deli, Damascus, Baghdad & Eastern Europe. With architects and master craftsmen "brought back" from faraway lands, Timur wanted to construct huge buildings, a clear testament to his power and his wealth. Yes, many of these buildings have had varying degrees of restoration inside and/or out. It is usually apparent: a decaying section left revealed or simply a difference in color between older slightly faded tile and the new. Interestingly, the guide (a PhD archeologist) said that most of the restoration work was done under the Soviets and was well done, particularly in comparison to post-Soviet restoration work which has been less skilled.
The Registan buildings (all madrasas; there used to be a fourth) and square overwhelm. It is impossible to take it all in from any single point. I found myself standing in the middle of the square…once used for official proclamations and even executions (well into the 20th century!)…turning around and around in circles trying to take it all in.
The Registan - Samarkand - UNESCO World Heritage Site
As spectacular as the exteriors are, the interiors are sometimes overwhelming in detail.
Interior & Ceiling of Tilla-Kari Madrasa & Mosque, Registan, Samarkand - UNESCO World Heritage Site
I admit to getting a bit nerdy with the tile work, not really my thing. I know nothing about tile or glazing or any of that. But I began to find the evolution of the craftsmen from basic baked brick to painted glazed square tiles, to octagons to mosaic to double layered carved tiles fascinating and begin to even be able to recognize “early” work from later, to recognize Arabic script that was a religious verse vs. a poem.
As you see in the first photo of the series, when the square tiles had a continuous pattern. they had to plan ahead as to which tile went where. If you look at the white space on the edge of the tiles, you’ll see tiny numbers designating their sequence in the design.
1 of 5
Tiles and detail 01
2 of 5
Tiles and detail 02
3 of 5
Tiles and detail 03
4 of 5
Tiles and detail 04
5 of 5
Janice and tiles
Some of my favorites were the simple baked brick but done in amazing designs. These, of course, are also the oldest…some of the glazing techniques not yet discovered.
The minaret pictured from Bukhara was once the tallest minaret in all of Central Asia. Known as the Tower of Death for all the people who were thrown off the top, its beauty supposedly so overwhelmed Genghis Khan when he invaded the town, that he had the tower spared. Similarly, the Soviets also did not damage the tower in their bombing of 1920.
1 of 2
Samanid Mausoleum -Bukhara - 9th Century
2 of 2
Kalyan Minaret - Buhkara - 12th Century
Oddly, for all the tile work, there is a tradition of woodworking, particularly in Khiva. I never understood quite how as the landscape is pretty barren and treeless. But the Juma Mosque in Khiva was unique for its windowless design with over 200 carved elm (supposedly) columns dating from the 10th & 11th centuries, and 16th & 17th centuries. Each one was unique!
Juma Mosque - Ichan Kala (Old Town) - Khiva
This Old Town of Khiva was my favorite. A small walled city, even today, with only 3000 residents, you can walk from the North gate to the South in about 15 minutes. Some of the remaining stone streets still have ruts remaining from all the cart wheels of the Silk Road merchants. The town is a quiet place where you can feel the hundreds of years of history in every narrow street. You’ll notice sticks coming out of the buildings. Legend has it that evil spirits will only inhabit a completed building. So they would leave sticks sticking out as if construction was still on-going!
1 of 2
Old Town of Khiva
2 of 2
Stone Streets of Old Town Khiva
To wrap up this adventure that was about much more than I ever imagined, a couple of observations of “weird” things…and food.
First: NAPKINS. Oh my gosh. One square of Charmin is bigger and thicker than their napkins. I am not exaggerating. I don’t think I”m a messy eater, but these were ridiculously useless.
A double shot of local vodka is the same price as an Americano.
Twice for dessert I was given something that I swear was Rice Krispie treats…just bigger Krispies!!!
The popular Uzbek snack is dried yogurt balls. Yup. They are hard balls…some the size of a marble, some like a super large marshmallow size. Hard….not so hard to crack a tooth, but almost. And SALTY!!!! And dry. Sorta like salty chalk. Some are flavored: basil, pepper. Every market had tons. In this picture, you see several bags in the lower left. Note this woman all layered up; I think it was about 98 degrees. Common apparel for older women.
Woman selling yogurt balls
Last: plov. Plov is as much a national dish as is their bread. There are restaurants that only serve plov. And not a couple—every town has several. And while it is considered something best eaten when prepared in a restaurant, in a giant pot, my guide says they make it every weekend at home. It is sorta like fried rice. Except.
I found it odd when I was asked, “Have you had plov yet?” “No? Oh!” (Big smile.) Then I’d be advised, “Best to have it for lunch. It’s too much for dinner, particularly for Americans,” or “Your stomach isn’t used to it.” ?!?!? So, for lunch on my last day I had plov. Essentially, plov is rice cooked in fat or oil, usually linseed, a/k/a flaxseed oil. It has a strong flavor. With the rice, you get one chunk of meat (beef or lamb), maybe some peppers, garbanzo beans, a quail egg, onions. It is just as bland as all the Uzbek food, but it is quite fatty and greasy. Quite. You can see the food glisten in my picture! Now I confess that while I am finishing this blog a few days after returning home, my stomach is still not quite right! And I have a cast iron stomach!
1 of 2
Making Plov
2 of 2
Plov
Thank you for traveling the Silk Road with me. I truly enjoy sharing what I see. Always I learn about our world, how all of us on this planet share dreams in common. I come home with all my senses re-energized by days of processing different sounds, walking dim cobbled streets, dirty with dust blown down from Kyzylkuym Desert (the largest in the world), my brain trying to learn and process ideas new to me but really very ancient.
Rahmat. Thank you.
