St. Simons Island’s Guiding Light Turns 150

Since September 1, 1872, the current St. Simons Lighthouse has been the steadfast beacon shining over our island home. Officially illuminated for the very first time on that night, the lighthouse has not only served to guide countless ships safely into port and withstood ferocious storms over those 150 years that followed, but it has also become one of the region’s most recognizable and cherished historic landmarks. It provides a bright welcome to those visiting the Golden Isles and it is a shining symbol of home for those of us who live here. As we approach that important date of September 1 and special events that the Coastal Georgia Historical Society has planned for the occasion, we’d like to take a closer look at this island icon and the important role it plays in our community.

The History of the Light

The story of the St. Simons Island lighthouse truly begins with the octagonal light station built by James Gould on four acres of property on the island’s south end deeded to the federal government for that use by Cannon’s Point Plantation owner John Couper. The 75-foot-tall tabby and brick tower housed an oil lantern and became operational in 1810, with Gould himself serving as the light keeper. In 1861, that tower was destroyed by retreating Confederate troops to prevent the Union Navy from using it as an aid to navigation. According to historic records, the Fresnel lens installed in 1857 was dismantled and removed “to the interior” before the tower was demolished. The Federal troops that landed in Brunswick searched for the lens with no success. To this day, it has not been found. Unfortunately, the destruction of the St. Simons Light left Georgia’s coast without one of its key lighthouses for more than a decade.

By 1868, Orlando Poe, the United States Lighthouse Board’s chief engineer, was supervising the design of a new St. Simons light station. An academically gifted West Point graduate, Poe served under General William T. Sherman, who appointed him to oversee the burning of Atlanta. After the war, Poe was serving as Engineer Secretary of the U.S. Lighthouse Board when plans for our lighthouse were developed. Georgia architect Charles Cluskey was awarded a contract for the building of the St. Simons Lighthouse and the Keeper’s Dwelling in November of that year. Tragically, Cluskey died from malaria (probably caused by the island’s mosquitoes) in 1871 and never saw the completed project for himself when the St. Simons Light was first illuminated on September 1, 1872.

The lighthouse is 104 feet tall and constructed of Savannah grey brick. The tower measures 21 feet in diameter at its base, tapering to 10 foot in diameter at the gallery’s base. Its spiral cast iron staircase is encased within an 8-foot-wide column, leaving space between the exterior and interior brick walls for the original rotational weight system that turned the flash panels of the lens. The decorative iron brackets supporting the lighthouse gallery at the top echo the elements of Italianate architecture in the Keeper’s Dwelling design. The gracefully tapering tower and elegant ornamental ironwork are signature architectural features of Orlando Poe, who later supervised the design and construction of several Great Lakes lighthouses.

Since 1872, a 3rd order Fresnel lens, made in France, has projected the light that guides marine vessels through St. Simons Sound and into the Port of Brunswick. The light was converted from kerosene oil lamp to electricity in 1934 and automated in the mid-1950s, ending the need for a resident keeper. The tower is painted solid white, known as its day mark. The fixed light is surrounded by four rotating flash panels, resulting in a flash every sixty seconds—the night signature of the St. Simons Light, which continues to be an Active Aid to Navigation maintained by the U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary.

In 1971, the Keeper’s Dwelling was declared surplus and under threat of development. Coastal Georgia Historical Society was instrumental in saving and restoring the historic structure and the federal government conveyed ownership to Glynn County for its use as a museum that year. Since that time, the Historical Society has continued to maintain and operate the building as a museum of coastal history. The Society began managing public access to the Lighthouse in the mid-1980s. Ownership of the lighthouse was transferred to the Society in 2004 under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act.

The Early Keepers

From the date of the construction of the St. Simons Lighthouse until its conversion to electricity in 1953, eight light keepers faithfully maintained the light. These devoted caretakers of the tower’s beam lived with their families in the Victorian keeper’s dwelling at the base of the lighthouse.

The strenuous round-the-clock nature of their duties included lugging 3-gallon cans of kerosene to fuel the flame up the 129 steps that led to the top every evening, as well as countless other daily maintenance needs. These tasks invariably required the help of their family members. While assistance from family members was typically unofficial, the wives of keeper Isaac Peckham (1883-1892) and Joseph Champagne (1892-1907) did receive official recognition by the U.S. government. Dora Peckham and Abbie Champagne were granted the official designation as Assistant Keepers.

Perhaps the best known of the keepers and their families was Carl Olaf Svendsen who served as the head keeper from 1907 to 1935. Born on his father’s ship in the harbor of Cardiff, Wales in 1878, Svendsen spent his life by the sea before arriving with his wife Annie and daughter Helen to care for the St. Simons Lighthouse. This was no unfamiliar task, as his father, mother, and brother all served as keepers at various times in lighthouses from South Carolina to Florida. The Svendsens added two more children, Carl Jr. and Lucille, to their family while residing in the keeper’s cottage. Daughter Helen once shared in an interview that captains of ships arriving in St. Simons Sound would salute the lighthouse with a whistle blast and her mother Annie would return the salute by raising a flag. Helen said that her father made it possible for the flag to be raised by Annie from the cottage, adding that it was always her mother that returned the salute because her father was constantly busy working. The family resided in the cottage and maintained the lighthouse until Carl’s death in 1935. The Svendsens were part of the celebration of the lighthouse’s 50th birthday in 1922. Thanks to the steadfast care of light keepers and their assistants in those early years, the lighthouse endured through winds and weather so this occasion can now be celebrated once again a century later.

Dedicated Volunteers

Now that the lighthouse beacon is full automated, what exactly does “keeping the light” entail? In 2014, EIL published an article written by Arlene Ingram recognizing the 20 years of service by the volunteer light team of U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary, Flotilla 10-10. What follows is her description of their mission and weekly duties—it’s no small task!

In 1984, the Coastal Georgia Historical Society leased the St. Simons Lighthouse and Keeper’s Dwelling from the U.S. Coast Guard and opened it to the public. The Coasties were still the lightkeepers until all those official duties were turned over to the capable hands of the current U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary Flotilla 10-10 St. Simons Island volunteer light team.

In 2004, following a long, successful lease, the lighthouse was deeded to the Coastal Georgia Historical Society by the U.S. Coast Guard under the Lighthouse Preservation Act. The close-knit team of Auxiliary volunteer lightkeepers came with the deal because even though the Lighthouse and Keeper’s Dwelling have become a historic museum store and tourist magnet, that bright beacon at the top still has a vital safety mission of which many islanders and visitors are unaware.

Every Thursday afternoon, the crew climbs 129 steps to the observatory. They enter the gated mechanical area to do systems checks while some ascend another 10 feet into the lens room to perform a series of maintenance tasks that ensure the light is continuously operational.

Every week, they don white gloves to clean and polish the high voltage light bulb and the numerous individual prisms that reflect a precisely sequenced illumination out to sea. The prisms are all part of the 155-year-old, original Third Order Fresnel (fray-NEL) lens (of which 15 or fewer are in service in the U.S).

In addition to polishing each individual glass prism of the Fresnel lens and its brass frame, the team checks the back-up emergency radio, the moving parts and lubrication of the 3,000 lb. gear mechanism that keeps the lens turning. They test the electrical system, the high intensity light bulb and the back-up bulb that automatically takes a failed bulb’s place. Finally, they cover the photo sensor to see if the light will automate at dusk. All this ensures that the 1000-watt bulb, magnified by the exquisitely polished lens, shines brilliantly for up to 20 miles seaward, rotating to produce one uniquely patterned dazzling flash per minute.

The St. Simons lighthouse is part of the “St. Simons Bar Channel range”. When mariners approach St. Simons Sound any night or in reduced visibility, they will visibly place the light from the lighthouse tower in the center of the two tall lighted towers located just into the Frederica River at the south tip of St. Simons Island. When these 3 tower lights are aligned correctly, the vessel’s pilot is able to safely maneuver through the deep Bar Channel buoys and be assured he will not run aground.

Because of the guiding St. Simons Island light’s valuable service to commercial mariners, the Brunswick Pilots Association provides a back-up generator power source to the lamp in case of electrical failure. Over the years, and in addition to the general weekly maintenance, the crew has changed countless bulbs, repaired wiring, replaced the turning motor, polished brass, painted, and restored anything that has been broken.

Chautauqua Lecture Series to Recognize a Momentous Year

In honor of this historic occasion of the lighthouse’s 150th birthday, the theme of this year’s Chautauqua Lecture Series, presented by the Coastal Georgia Historical Society and sponsored by Raymond James, is “It Happened in 1872: National Events from the Year Our Lighthouse Was Illuminated.” This momentous year saw President Ulysses S. Grant sign the Yellowstone National Park Protection Act into law, the opening of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the first presidential election that followed the formation of the National Woman Suffrage Association.

Award-winning author George Black will present the first lecture, “Empire of Shadows: The Founding of Yellowstone National Park,” Thursday, August 11. Black’s lecture, based on his book, Empire of Shadows, detailing the epic story of the creation of the National Park System, will tell of the conquest of Yellowstone, Wyoming, a landscape uninhabited, inaccessible, and shrouded in myth in the aftermath of the Civil War. On Thursday, August 18, the series will continue with “In with the New: American Artists and the Metropolitan Museum of Art,” by Thayer Tolles, the museum’s Marica F. Vilcek Curator of American Paintings and Sculpture. Tolles will describe the early years of the museum, when some of America’s foremost artists were involved in forming the early collections, as were Jekyll Island Club members J. Pierpont Morgan and Emily and Robert De Forest. On Thursday, August 25, historian Ellen Dubois will present “The Year Susan B. Anthony Voted and Women Almost Secured Voting Rights for All Americans.” She will describe how Anthony, along with women in several other localities, attempted to vote in Rochester, New York, which led to her arrest and widely publicized trial. The series will conclude on Thursday, September 8 with a lecture by author Paul Taylor about the engineer who led the design of the St. Simons Lighthouse, entitled “Orlando Poe: Civil War General and Lighthouse Engineer.”

All of the lectures will take place at St. Simons Presbyterian Church, beginning at 6:00 p.m. They will also be available via live stream. Registration is $50 for members and $95 for non-members, and will close on Wednesday, August 10, at 5:00 p.m. A virtual link will be sent the week of the first program. Please note that lectures skip September 1, the date of the lighthouse’s birthday. Register online at coastalgeorgiahistory.org or on EventBrite.

Illuminating a Community

To get a better idea of what the lighthouse means to our some of our island residents, EIL sent intern Callie Norton out to conduct some interviews. From its historic significance to its aesthetic appeal and from its importance as a navigational tool to a place where special memories are made, the thoughts shared with Callie encompass so much that we love about this treasured island landmark.

Fourth generation St. Simons Island native, Clay Strother, works in his family’s full-service hardware store, lumber yard, and building supply company that has been serving professional builders and homeowners since 1930. While the towering structure of J.C. Strother Hardware is a landmark in Pier Village, the lack of such structures around the lighthouse is Clay’s favorite thing about it. He feels that it’s the tranquil setting of the surrounding tree canopy that lends to the lighthouse’s unique beauty, saying, “I like the fact that you can look out and see all the trees. I mean, if you didn’t have the tree canopy, it would just be a bunch of buildings.

Jonathan “J.T.” Tennant, the well-known local harbor pilot who took heroic action to safely ground the Golden Ray out of the shipping channel while it was capsizing, spends his life almost entirely under the lighthouse’s steady guiding light. “The lighthouse is integrated into my life a great deal. It’s our principle, fixed aid of navigation in the harbor, so we use it for over half the route. I also live underneath the sweep of the lighthouse under the oak trees.” J.T. explained the importance of the lighthouse in matters of offshore safety: “We use it for navigational purposes because, as pilots, we’re not on computers navigating; we’re terrestrial navigators, meaning we’re looking outside the window at objects as reference points to make turns throughout the harbor. We also use it to tell the weather. Most of our work takes place at night, and we can tell by the strength of the light – or if there’s whiskers on the light – if there’s moisture in the air. We don’t want to sail a ship in zero visibility.” In immense detail, the pilot reasoned the lighthouse’s purpose as a simplistic yet consistently reliable tool that’s crucial for keeping our waters safe. “None of that has changed in hundreds of years – prior to GPS, right?” He emphasized that none of this old-school technology would be reliable without adequate maintenance: “I would be remiss if we did not express our gratitude to the lighthouse keepers and their diligence in maintaining the light mechanisms.”

One of those lighthouse keepers, is Jeff Cole, a U.S. Coast Guard Auxiliary member and head lighthouse keeper. As Cole climbed into the lighthouse’s lantern room, he explained everything that goes into the structure’s maintenance. His weekly visits ensure its functionality so that it remains visible and communicative, the duty which Tennant expressed his immense gratitude for above. Looking into the Fresnel lens at the tiny bulb, Jeff remarked on the occasion: “This light first lit September 1st 150 years ago.” When talking about the unique characteristics of the St. Simons Lighthouse, which helps sailors chart their location along the coast, he marveled at the effectiveness of such old technology, saying, “Somebody figured that out, low tech, a long time ago. I think that’s pretty neat.” And after 28 years spent diligently maintaining the lighthouse, Jeff thinks that this small bulb–previously a small flame–is the heart of it all. “There are two lights in there: the primary and the spare, and the primary light’s 1000 watts. If the primary fails, the spare swings right into the middle of the focal point of the light to make it as efficient as possible. That’s the key to this whole place. It’s that light.”

Darryl Peck, owner of Righton Books in Redfern Village, says the lighthouse has always been a sign of welcome. Having lived on the island for “only” 32 years now, Darryl jokingly mentioned that he’s “a rookie,” unlike his wife’s side of the family, who are multi-generational natives. But regardless of his origin or the timing of his arrival, he’s never felt like an outsider on St. Simons Island. According to Darryl, the lighthouse is a testament to the island’s overall charm, and it’s “a beacon of freedom that has been welcoming members of our family since the early twentieth century.”

Lifelong island resident and owner of ITG Properties, Hal Pruitt said he associates the lighthouse with his childhood, and he’s thrilled that his children now get to experience those same memories he has. “I remember climbing the lighthouse when I went to St. Simons Elementary. My kids are climbing it now.” In addition to mentioning visits to the lighthouse as an experience being passed down through the generations, he also recalled a spooky St. Simons legend. “I always heard the story about it being haunted. Apparently, you can hear footsteps going up and down it at night.”

Lodi Palmer at Anderson Fine Art Gallery has been a full-time island resident since 1998 and part of her earlier years as a local were spent giving history tours.  The lighthouse, she said, was a well-covered topic. “I remember walking up those dang steps! What is it, 129 steps? Am I remembering correctly?” (Correct!) When prompted about what she feels is most significant about the lighthouse, she didn’t hesitate to say that she finds value–and humor–in its history: “I used to laugh about how the Confederates blew it up to keep the Northerners away so they wouldn’t have a lighthouse to come in…but all the Northerners did was go down to Retreat Plantation and hang a couple lanterns, and that took care of that.”

Dave Snyder, Executive Chef and Restaurateur, views the lighthouse as a reminder of the simpler things. One of the community’s most well-known restaurant owners, Chef Dave has lived on the island for 26 years. His three restaurants–Halyards, Tramici, and La Plancha–are consistently full of hungry islanders and tourists alike. And while his restaurants’ atmospheres allow his guests to live on island time, so to speak, those who have worked in the service industry understand that it can be fast-paced and chaotic. Amidst all of the things that make our lives hectic (service industry careers included), Dave views the lighthouse as symbolic of life’s simpler nature and sees it as a reminder to slow down: “It reminds me of how slow we can enjoy our world in a time of high technology with everything going so fast. Just watching this simple lighthouse do its job as a basic light source with candles going round and round helps me enjoy slowing down in life.”

Halyards Catering Events Director, Michael Young, discussed the appeal of the lighthouse as a striking backdrop for events. Situated right by the beach overlooking dense patches of trees and serene water, the St. Simons Lighthouse has always been a go-to destination for a wide array of events. Michael reflected on coordinating many memorable experiences for his clients there, touting the structure’s magnificent views, particularly for weddings. In Michael’s opinion, it’s a special place for special memories: “It’s such a wow factor when I do weddings there. Just before I transition guests into the dining room for dinner, I get the lighthouse empty and ask the bride and groom to go up to the top for some aerial photographs. I have some gorgeous drone photos of brides at the top of it.

Edward Armstrong, or as the locals call him, “Edward the Florist,” from Edward on Saint Simons, shared how he starts each day at the lighthouse with a clear and peaceful mind. “My favorite thing is parking at the lighthouse in the early morning at 7:00 or 7:30 and having my devotional and prayers. It has given me strength and serenity through the years. It’s been a beacon to me.” Additionally, Edward is often arranging flowers for weddings there. Echoing Halyards’ Catering Events Coordinator, Michael Young, Edward says he really enjoys “doing pretty weddings at the lighthouse.”

If you’re looking for another way to find strength and serenity, Matthew White, Studio Manager at Live Oak Fitness, recommends climbing the lighthouse for a great workout. From a fitness perspective, White, thinks the 129 steps to the top of the lighthouse are worth the effort – and, aside from a good workout, he said that the spectacular views and cool wind are a big payoff: “You can see all the way to Cumberland Island, and there’s always a nice breeze to cool you off afterwards.” He also fondly recalled the experiences he’s had when visiting the 104-foot-tall structure: “Every time I’ve gone there, the staff has been welcoming and friendly.”

Attorneys Robert and Bonnie Killian reflect on the lighthouse’s presence in both centuries-old local history and meaningful personal moments. This father and daughter team of attorneys at the Killian Law Firm, LLC, shared their recollections of the lighthouse in reflective and intimate ways. Robert alludes to the victories and quick development that took place in its proximity. He stated, “In 1742, while Fort Frederica was still under construction, the Spanish from St. Augustine attacked St. Simons Island. As we know, the British were victorious. Less than 70 years after the attack, maritime commerce in south coastal Georgia had grown from nothing to so much that the young United States funded the original St. Simons Lighthouse. Many believe tabby from Frederica was repurposed in the construction of the lighthouse.” His daughter, Bonnie, recalled the lighthouse being a backdrop to a couple of her sweetest memories: “I got engaged in the little gazebo by the lighthouse in 2007 and married at the casino in 2008.”

Margaret Burnsed, owner of The Cricket Shop, was quick to share how special the lighthouse is to her. After mentioning that she’s been frequenting the island her entire life, she said, “As long as I’ve been alive, it has been as much a part of this island as the ocean.” One particular memory from ten years ago stands out as especially notable: “My son James proposed to his wife Sara on top of the lighthouse. He placed roses randomly up the steps prior to their evening out. After dinner, his suggestion was to go for a walk where they would of course end up at the top of the lighthouse. It was there that he asked her to marry him.”

For the Elegant Island Living staff, the concerts on the lighthouse lawn hold nostalgic appeal. We are proud to be annual sponsors of the Little Light Music summer concert series. There is nothing better than seeing the way our community gathers together at this big “block party” to enjoy ocean breezes, old Motown hits and beach music while they share snacks and cold drinks, catch up with old neighbors and make new friends.

We invite you to share your own memories about special moments at the lighthouse or its importance in your life by emailing ElegantIslandAsks@gmail.com so we can share your stories on our website. If you have special photographs or art that you have created depicting the lighthouse, we welcome those as well.

Celebrating A Sesquicentennial

Coastal Georgia Historical Society Executive Director Sherri Jones stated that although the mission of the St. Simons Lighthouse may have changed over the years, it is still central to our community in both an economic and an emotional sense. It still serves as a navigational beacon for our prosperous port of Brunswick but may have an even greater impact by drawing visitors as a tourism icon. For some of us lucky ones, it’s simply a beloved symbol of home. It is unquestionably an essential part of what makes St. Simons Island the unique treasure that it is.

The Historical Society deserves a great deal of credit for the work they do to maintain and continue to beautify the Lighthouse, Keeper’s Dwelling, gazebo, and grounds. They have completed preservation projects over the years both small and large which have both maintained the integrity of the structures and improved the visitor experience. You can support their mission by becoming a member or giving a gift membership. Different levels of membership are available, and more information can be found at coastalgeorgiahistory.org.

Special celebratory events are planned for September 1 and throughout Labor Day weekend to commemorate the 150th birthday of the lighthouse and everyone in the community is invited to come out and join the festivities. A highlight is the screening of an amazing outdoor projection show on the lighthouse tower that combines digital art with varied forms of media, both modern and historical, to create a visual presentation that is immersive and engaging. There will be ample opportunities for viewing, so don’t miss out! You can learn more details about the birthday celebration as we get closer by following the Historic Society’s Facebook page and visiting their website, as well as keeping up with EIL’s online calendar and social media accounts.