Warm Up to Winter - Just My Cup of Tea

Of course everyone thinks of January as the month of new beginnings and resolutions, but you might not know it’s also National Hot Tea Month, as established by the Tea Council of the USA in 1950. (Who knew we had one of those?!) With colder temperatures, it’s the perfect time to enjoy a cup and to take a closer look at this ancient drink that has shaped cultures and countries.

Tea has played a central role in society for centuries. It was used as a medicinal herb by ancient Greeks and Romans, indigenous tribes in the Americas, and monks in Asia. Tea is a key part of social engagements and special occasions. It has even sparked political revolt. Tea culture encompasses elaborate Japanese tea ceremonies and the English afternoon high tea tradition, but also embraces sipping Southern sweet tea on the screen porch.

China is where it all began. According to legend, in 2737 BC, Chinese emperor Shen Nung was sitting beneath a Camellia sinesis tree while his servant boiled drinking water and some leaves from the tree blew into the water. Shen Nung, a renowned herbalist, tried this accidentally created infusion and the resulting drink was the origin of what we now call tea. Tea initially was used primarily for medicinal purposes, but by the Tang dynasty it was well-established as the national drink of China. In the late eighth century, a writer named Lu Yu wrote the first book entirely about tea: the Ch'a Ching, or Tea Classic. Shortly thereafter, tea was first introduced to Japan by Buddhist monks who had travelled to China to study. It became a vital part of Japanese culture, with elaborate tea ceremonies. Tea houses serving tea made from the green powder known as matcha became popular.

Portuguese priests traveling through or residing in China during the 15th century also discovered tea and likely brought samples home to their native country. It was the Dutch, however, who first shipped tea as a commercial import. By the turn of the 17th century they had established a trading post on the island of Java, and the first consignment of tea from China was shipped via that post to Holland in 1606. In South America, yerba mate, a genus of holly, was cultivated and consumed as a type of tea. This deeply spiritual drink was believed to be the drink of the gods, offering tea drinkers deep insight into their own beings and the world around them.

The tea from China soon became a fashionable drink among the Dutch, and from there spread to other countries in continental Europe, although due to its high price it was primarily a drink for the wealthy. Sailors on the British East India Company ships (which had a monopoly on importing goods from outside Europe) probably brought tea home with them as gifts, but the first dated reference to tea in England was an advertisement in a September 1658 London newspaper. It announced that “China Drink, called by the Chinese, Tcha, by other Nations Tay alias Tee” was available at a local coffee house, suggesting that the drink was still somewhat of a curiosity.

By the 1700s, however, tea had become the staple drink of Britain. Its widespread popularity is credited to Charles II’s bride, the Portuguese Infanta Catherine of Braganza, who was an avid tea drinker. It was her love of the drink that established tea as a fashionable beverage at court and was quickly adopted by the wealthy classes in general. The East India Company capitalized on this popularity and began importing tea into Britain, with the first order placed in 1664 for 100 lbs. of China tea to be shipped from Java. Taxation and tea went hand in hand, though, and the beverage was still out of reach for many.

In 1834, the East India Company’s monopoly on trade with China ended. This meant importing tea became a free-for-all, with British and American clipper ships racing to get the tea from China and bring it home to make the most money. The tea clipper races of the 1860s were famous. The East India Company also turned to growing tea in India, the country in which its operations were centered and where it played a leading role in government. By 1839 they had successfully cultivated enough marketable quality tea from Assam to hold a tea auction in Britain. In 1858 the British government took over direct control of India from the East India Company and continued to promote the tea industry. Cultivation increased and spread to regions beyond Assam with great success. Production was expanded and by 1888 British tea imports from India exceeded its tea imports from China.

In the 20th century, an accidental invention radically changed our tea-drinking habits forever. Around 1908, New York tea merchant Thomas Sullivan began sending samples of tea to his customers in small silk bags.

People assumed that the bags were supposed to be used in the same way as metal tea infusers and put the entire bag into the pot, rather than emptying out the contents. The new convenience and ease of cleaning haws quite appealing. In response, Sullivan intentionally developed tea bags made of gauze to be used in that manner. During the 1920s the bags were developed for commercial production, and grew in popularity in the US. They didn’t gain popularity in Britain until the 1950s when Tetley introduced their bags in 1953 and others soon followed. Tea manufacturer Lipton, the world’s biggest tea company, introduced the flo-thru bag in 1952 for individual servings of tea, and was the first to print brewing instructions on the tags. Their basic tea bag has remained essentially unchanged for nearly seven decades. Even the amount of black tea in the bag (about 30 leaves per bag) remains the same.

Currently China, India, and Kenya are the top three tea producers in the world. China is at the forefront, producing over 40% of the world's tea. It reclaimed this position at the turn of the 21stcentury after India held the top ranking for more than 100 years. Kenya is the top producer of black tea.

There are thousands of different infusions we call teas, but they can be broken down into two groups: true teas and herbal teas. All true teas are derived from one type of plant: Camellia sinensis, known commonly as the tea plant. This evergreen plant that grows in a host of climates, which can lend different flavors to each unique brew. True teas include green tea, white tea, black tea, and oolong tea. The tea growing process and tea processing methods differentiate the many types of tea. The color and flavor profile of teas are determined by the naturally occurring oxidation or fermentation of the tea leaves.

Tea leaves are harvested from the plant and then rolled either by hand or using a machine. The rolling process creates tiny cracks that allow oxygen to react with the plant enzymes leading to the different types of true tea. Green and white teas are not oxidized and are simply allowed to dry after harvesting. The leaves are not crushed, but are instead subjected to drying either in the sun or by pan firing. Oolong tea is partially oxidized, while black tea is fully oxidized. Lesser-oxidized teas, such as white tea, will feature a smooth, delicate flavor and will be light green or yellow. Fully oxidized teas, such as black tea, develop stronger flavors and aromas and will be dark brown or a rich burnt red. Tea cultivators are experts at oxidizing leaves and in some cases they repeat the process many times over or use certain artisanal techniques to develop precise aromas and flavors.

Herbal teas, also known as tisanes, are not made using any leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant and are entirely caffeine free. These herbal blends are made using spices, flowers, and leaves of a variety of other plants, including fruits and herbs. Herbal infusions are created when herbal teas and true tea leaves are combined for distinct flavors. These herbal blends can be categorized as black, green, white and oolong depending on which tea leaves and processes are used to create them.

White Tea

White tea is the least processed of the four true tea varietals. This tea is made

using only baby tea leaves and the spring harvest requires just a few days. Because it is not processed and undergoes natural drying, white tea is often considered one of the healthiest and most natural teas. Its flavor is sweet and delicate, yet complex. The two most popular types of white tea are Silver Needle, made using only the silvery white buds of the plant, and slightly darker White Peony, made using the bud and first two leaves, These are commonly known in China as Bai Hao Yin Zhen and Bai Mu Dan.

Green Tea

Green tea is the second least processed tea when it comes to oxidation. This tea is slightly stronger than white tea and known for being packed with antioxidants. It is a pale green color, similar to the actual appearance of tea

leaves. Green tea is made using leaves that are allowed to wither until they are loose and limp, at which point they are immediately dried. The leaves are then either fired or steamed using a variety of techniques including pan-firing and roasting. During the drying process, tea masters roll the leaves into long, thin twig shapes or pearls depending on the tea varietal. Generally, Chinese green teas are pan-fired or roasted, whereas Japanese green teas are typically steamed at high temperatures. Roasting lends a smooth, aromatic flavor to green tea, while steaming results in a more herb-like taste. The flavor of green tea can vary dramatically, ranging from grassy and earthy to nutty, roasted and freshly floral. Similar to wine, green tea flavor profiles depend on terroir, a term used to describe the impact of origin, region, climate, soil, or weather on the taste. Green teas were the most popular teas until black tea, often served with milk, became the preference in the late 18th century.

Commonly thought of as a sub-type of green tea due to its lack of oxidation in processing, pu-erh tea is defined as a post-oxidized tea. The tea leaves are subjected to heat, which kills the enzymes that are responsible for oxidation. This means that the plant undergoes minimal processing and isn't allowed to oxidize. Instead, pu-erh tea leaves are aged 10-15 years to develop flavor like fine spirits. A natural microbial process then oxidizes the leaves over time rather than the standard oxidation process that uses air. The health benefits and flavor compounds of aged pu-erh tea are more similar to black and green teas. Since there is still a natural oxidation process, some tea drinkers considered aged pu-erh tea to be a separate varietal of true tea.

Oolong Tea

Oolong teas, known in China as wulong tea, are among the most expensive

and highest quality teas in the world. Oolong tea leaves are cultivated solely in Southeastern China and Taiwan and are typically brown in color, resulting in an even, full-bodied brew. Often described as having blended characteristics of both green and black tea, oolong is a partially oxidized tea. This tea is steeped in cultural tradition and may boast the widest variety of flavor profiles compared to the other true teas due to its varied production process and traditional brewing methods. Oolong tea leaves are placed in a bamboo basket, where they are softly rubbed to encourage reaction with oxygen. Tea masters take care to only scratch the outer surface of the leaves, keeping the center intact and vibrant green. As the tea oxidizes, oolong teas become either a medium green or deep amber color. Dark oolong flavors feature hints of chocolate and burnt sugar while lighter oolongs are smoother and more floral.

Black Tea

Black tea is the most processed of the true teas. It is also one of the mostpopular teas worldwide. Leaves are harvested and immediately withered to be rolled, allowing for the release of enzymes that will react with oxygen. After rolling, the leaves are spread out one-by-one to allow full oxidation to occur. Once the leaves turn brown, they are fired to prevent additional oxidation and flavor changes.

This process creates tea with a strong, robust flavor profile that is typically a deep brown, burnt red or black color. Described as malty and rich, black tea features hints of dark chocolate, dates and raisins. Black tea also boasts the highest caffeine content of all true teas (with the exception of matcha green tea) with 60-90 milligrams per 8 oz. cup.

Popular types of black tea include Darjeeling, Assam, Ceylon and English breakfast. The strong full-bodied Assam and floral and fruity Darjeeling teas are cultivated almost entirely in India. The Ceylon black tea that comes primarily from Sri Lanka has a robust taste and varies from burgundy brown to golden honey in color. The Brits have a special fondness for English breakfast tea, including Earl Grey teas, which get their distinctive fragrance and citrusy taste from the addition of bergamot.

Spice It Up

So what’s chai? Technically, the word simply means tea in India, and refers to the black tea with milk that they serve. Here in the U.S., we call a creamy spiced tea drink a chai tea or chai tea latte, although that’s redundant. Masala chai is the spiced version of Indian chai. Spicy and warm, it makes a fantastic breakfast drink or afternoon pick-me-up alternative to coffee. Chai wallahs, the Indian street vendors who make masala chai, all have their own unique blend of chai spices. The spices most commonly used with the black tea (usually Assam and Darjeeling) are a combination of fresh ginger, cardamom pods, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and star anise. The spice combinations, amount of milk and sweetener used, are all subjective and based on personal preference; so start with this basic Masala Chai recipe (click link for recipe) and play around with it until you get the mix of spices and creamy sweetness you like. Warm up with a cup! 

Tea Time & Scones - A British Tradition 

As tea gained widespread popularity, so did the tasty morsels that were served along with the beverage. Tea sandwiches, tea cakes and tea biscuits all got their names from their close association with the drink they accompanied. 

The custom of afternoon tea was introduced in England by Anna, the seventh Duchess of Bedford, around 1840. Because the Duchess became hungry hours before the household’s evening meal was served fashionably late at 8:00 p.m., she asked to be served a tray of tea, cake, bread and butter in the late afternoon. This became a daily routine and she began inviting friends to join her, making afternoon tea a fashionable social event that caught on with others. Society women would change into long gowns, gloves and hats for afternoon tea served in the drawing room. Traditional afternoon tea fare consists of dainty sandwiches (including cucumber sandwiches), scones served with clotted cream and preserves, cakes, and pastries. Tea from India or Ceylon was poured from silver tea pots into delicate bone china cups. Of course there are still many places where afternoon tea is served, even here in the Golden Isles. This Earl Grey Scones recipe (click link for recipe) is an easy to make and has a delicious tea flavored twist.