I write this back in Hanoi, having spent seven days exploring small ethnic villages tucked into the beautiful mountains. Some of the villages are barely more than a wide spot in the twisty road. Some homes are scattered across the terraced hillsides.
Some ethnic groups,have lived in these mountains since the 17th century. The Tay seem to me like original Vietnamese, having been here since the 1st century! Most were originally from various parts of China. Others from Laos, Thailand, Tibet and throughout Southeast Asia.
I wonder if these groups feel a stronger identity to their ethnic culture than to the country of Vietnam. The guide says no. Also the constitution specially recognizes the right of these people to preserve their ethnic identity and culture. However there was a big contrast between Hanoi - where so ma y business and homes fly the national flag, and these villages where it was rare to see it.
This is an agrarian economy, with families growing rice, of course, corn, and in the rockier areas,sweet potatoes and peanuts. You frequently drive by homes with corn or rice or even cinnamon spread out on a tarp to dry. Even the way they dry the grains varies. In most villages, the corn is spread out on the ground. Closer to the Chinese border, the corn cob is simply hung from the roof. Most is grown for their own use. Any excess is sold in the market.
1 of 4
2 of 4
3 of 4
4 of 4
Homes are different from one ethnic group to another. Some are stilt homes, built up to stay dry and also to use the ground level for storage. One of the pictures shows a traditional stilt home and a newer one and the same style. The tradition continues! Some homes are primarily wooden structures and others are clay.
1 of 4
2 of 4
3 of 4
4 of 4
Today, it is cheaper to build a house of concrete than wood . And of course, the wooden houses don’t last too long. Also, as children grow up and get jobs in factories, the additional income is used to build a bigger, more conventional, home. This picture shows an old wooden structure and the owner’s new home being built next door.
Some have roofs made of woven bamboo leaves. Others , near the Chinese border, are clay tiles. The clay comes from the wet rice fields. The tiles are curved, like half moon shape, and set in the yin-yang style: one facing up and one facing down. Some roofs have a symbol made of tile on the ridge line as a wish for prosperity or happiness.
1 of 4
2 of 4
3 of 4
4 of 4
As you enter the house, the Hmong consider the entrance doorway a spiritual threshold guarded by spirits. They have a small banner hanging from the top of the door to keep bad spirits away. The guide cautioned us not to touch
Inside the house is a kitchen and a sleeping room for the whole family…parents, kids, grandparents. I had read that Vietnam had a 2 child rule. However it only applied to government workers ! And now the government has eliminated the policy.
One house had a living room type space with an alter and a spiritual sign (I never figured out what it was).
1 of 5
2 of 5
3 of 5
4 of 5
5 of 5
Alcoholism is a problem with men in the ethnic villages. When I asked “because there are no jobs and they just sit at home?” The answer was “ no. They are just lazy. .” Rice wine, or happy water, is common. In some areas, it is corn liquor. One home had a distillery for corn liquor, very popular with the Hmong and the Dao. The corn is boiled for a day or so with the steam evaporating to ferment. Then it is distilled. One picture shows how important the corn liquor is in their lives: in one room of the house are stored the distilled liquor jugs--nearly as many as the bags of rice!!
1 of 2
2 of 2
One kitchen had a separate area for preparing food for the pigs. Yes. They cook food for the pig …rice and vegetables. Every day!
The homes have a fire pit for cooking. In these spaces, it often leaves the rooms black with soot.
And every house, no matter how simple had a tv and speakers….for karaoke which is hugely popular in Vietnam.
The homes are…a mess. Piles of clothes. Dishes and belongings scattered about or stored in the cracks of the walls.
1 of 3
2 of 3
3 of 3
Most Vietnamese practice ancestor worship and every home and business has an alter. The alter has incense and 3 jars to hold rice, water and salt symbolizing prosperity, purity and sustenance. You’ll see in one home, there is a photo of Chairman Mao on the wall next to the alter.
In the next installment, I’ll finish up my experiences with the ethnics groups sharing what I learned about their health care, funerals, and food: Horse soup is a delicacy, costing $10 for a bowl in a restaurant, extremely high when most meals are a couple dollars.
