It often surprises local wine tipplers to learn that one of the most important chapters in fortified wine history unfolded nearby in coastal Georgia. Madeira, the "indestructible" wine born of volcanic soil and accidental heat, did not just fill the crystal decanters of the Founding Fathers; it fueled the engines of revolution and defined the social fabric of the South, with Savannah, Georgia, serving as one of its most enduring temples.
The story of Madeira is a masterclass in the serendipity of the sea. In the mid-1600s, Portuguese winemakers on the island of Madeira began fortifying their wines with brandy to survive the long, sweltering voyages to the Americas. Producers discovered that the brutal heat of a ship’s hold did not ruin the wine, it enhanced it. These lonely trips concentrated the sugars and oxidized the juice into a complex, nutty elixir that refused to spoil. They eventually embraced the song they heard the ocean sing and began intentionally heating the wine by storing casks in heated rooms or lofts known as estufas. For a colonial America lacking refrigeration and reliable transport, a wine that improved with abuse was nothing short of a miracle.
While the wine was loved from Boston to Charleston, it found a spiritual home in Savannah. As the capital of the youngest colony, and its humid, subtropical climate, the city was perfectly suited for the "cooked" wine of the Atlantic. In the 18th and 19th centuries, Savannah became the premier port of entry for the finest pipes (large casks) of Madeira. The city’s elite developed a palate so refined that specific blends historically known as Savannah Style were commissioned, often further aged in the attics of townhomes where the Georgia sun could mimic the heat of a big boat’s core.
Savannah’s importance wasn't merely commercial; it was cultural. The city became famous for its Madeira Clubs. These were exclusive gatherings where gentlemen would debate politics and philosophy over flights of vintage wine. These assemblies served as important networking centers of the time. In Savannah, an individual's social standing was frequently determined by both the quality of their wine collection and their expertise in recognizing the origins of specific vintages.
Because of a loophole in the British Navigation Acts, Madeira could be shipped directly to the colonies without passing through or being taxed by England. This made it a liquid middle finger to the British Crown. When John Hancock’s ship, the Liberty, was seized in 1768 for smuggling Madeira, it sparked riots that served as a dress rehearsal for the Revolution.
Today, while the era of the great Madeira Clubs has faded, Savannah remains the guardian of this legacy. The city still holds some of the oldest private collections in the country, a testament to a time when a glass of fortified wine from a tiny island was the true taste of American independence. It remains a wine that, much like the history of the South itself, only grows more complex with time and heat. Stop into JP’s Wine and Spirits for your own historical picture of nectar.
By Brian Henderson, CSW, FWS, SWS Advanced Sommelier
