Selecting a wine from a restaurant's wine list can be a daunting responsibility; however, it is often the subsequent steps that tend to cause individuals to panic. When the server presents a wine sample, it may initially seem uncomfortable if you aren’t sure what this tradition is all about, yet this step ensures that everyone at your table can enjoy a flawless bottle.
So, what are you looking for when you are asked to taste – and more importantly, smell – as the group's unofficial sommelier? (As an aside, the act of smelling a cork is futile. It smells like a cork; let the wine do the talking.) When a sample pour is offered, the purpose is not to assess your personal preference for the wine, but to determine whether it exhibits any flaws. It’s appropriate to inform the server and request a new bottle and a fresh glass if you encounter any of the following issues.
One of the most pronounced off-aromas or flavors encountered in wine is cork taint, commonly referred to as "corked" wine. This condition does not stem from a physically broken cork but from a natural cork that has been exposed to chlorine-containing compounds. Wines that are affected by this fault typically present aromas reminiscent of damp cardboard or a foggy cavern’s musky grime. These are attributed to the presence of TCA (2,4,6-Trichloroanisole). TCA will significantly diminish fruit characteristics and impart a musty quality to the wine.
Another frequently encountered issue is Volatile Acidity (VA), which results from an elevated concentration of acetic acid, typically arising during the winemaking process. When acetic acid interacts with alcohol, it can impart aromas reminiscent of nail polish remover. VA may also contribute a sharp, sour note like that of vinegar, but it is nearly impossible for a sealed bottle to transform into vinegar. Long before vinegar is made, oxygen exposure can cause oxidation in wine. This leads to aromas akin to roasted nuts or cooked fruits. If a young wine has a color like rusty apple juice when poured, this may indicate that oxidation has occurred. Although other flaws exist, TCA, VA, and oxidation are most common.
There are a few harmless suspects you may come across as well. For instance, tartaric acid can form deposits on corks or settle in the bottle. Like new crystals of snow, they resemble salt or sugar. These innocuous diamonds are the same byproduct of wine production used to make the baking stabilizer, cream of tartar. Sediment, another solid found in wine, refers to the natural particles that fall out of solution. Consisting of grape solids, yeast cells, and tartrate crystals, they may be unsightly at times but shouldn’t stop you from enjoying a well-crafted bottle.
Knowing what to sniff for can save you from an unsavory bottle. A great sommelier once said to me regarding flaws, “When in doubt, check it out, because the nose knows.” If you have any doubt, visit us at JP’s and we will gladly get you back on the train.
By Brian Henderson, CFW, FWS, Advanced Sommelier, JP's Wine & Spirits
