The fireworks of July conjure a specific aroma from my childhood that I would never have imagined to be a constant discussion in my thirty years as a sommelier. A match is struck, my friend, he lights the fuse, fireworks fill the sky, and the remaining smell of sulfur dioxide (sulfites) would forever be engrained into my library of olfactory hues. This compound continues to be a subject of controversy when it is nearly harmless.
Sulfites are naturally occurring compounds and are often believed to fuel wine-induced headaches. Contrary to popular belief, sulfites in wine generally do not cause headaches (although insisting that they do is the #1 cause of a sommelier’s dome distress). In fact, the FDA estimates that only 1% of the population has a sulfite sensitivity.
While no single explanation exists as to why some people have the misfortune of experiencing a dull cranial throb, it is often caused by something other than sulfites. Wine-based discomfort is most likely due to histamines or quercetin, both of which are found in grape skins. Histamines can dilate blood vessels, which can then lead to a nuisance in the noggin. Since red wine production includes the whole grape (including skins), these garnet delights tend to contain higher levels of histamines. White wine is typically made without the grape skin leading to lower levels of these compounds. Before you shake your finger at histamines for your post-wine headache, keep in mind that aged cheese, spinach, yogurt, ham, and a plethora of foods contain more histamines (and sulfites) than wine.
Technically there is not one wine on this planet that is sulfite free. To label wine as sulfite free, the product must contain less than 10 ppm (parts per million) of sulfites. To put that in perspective, the average bottle of white wine contains 80 ppm while a bag of dried fruit contains 3500 ppm. The “contains sulfites” declaration on a wine label is the best explanation as to why sulfites get an undeserved, negative reputation. Sulfites are a biproduct of fermentation and are used in winemaking to thwart microbial growth. They occur in every living organism.
The other culprit, Quercetin, is a flavonoid that is produced within the deeply colored skins of fruit and other deeply colored edible plants. It can block the metabolism of alcohol, resulting in the accumulation of a toxin called acetaldehyde. In high levels, acetaldehyde causes headaches, flushing and an upset stomach. It’s considered a healthy antioxidant but when digested with alcohol, it can be problematic.
If you’ve considered throwing in the towel on wine due to a negative experience, it may that you have yet to find the right bottle. After all, you are far more likely to have a reaction to a handful of raisins than a hearty glass of Tempranillo.
Stop by JP’s Wine and Spirits and our Sommelier will gladly go over some options that may get you back in the wine game with comfort. Cheers!
