My love affair with sub-Saharan Africa began well over a decade ago, when my precious mother took me on my first safari to Kenya and Tanzania. And now, many years and 30+ safaris later, I am even more deeply in love with this amazing place, full of exotic animals, enchanting people, and phenomenal scenery.
Lion and Camp on the Mara
It took a few days, on that first trip, to go from the usual curiosity of the everyday tourist to the totally immersed “wanna-be” local. It happened gradually, not all at once, but within about 5 days of arrival, I knew my life had changed, and my mom was so happy that I had “the Africa bug” like she did. There is something that happens in sub-Saharan Africa that doesn’t happen anywhere else I have been in the world (which is a pretty long list). There is a peace that settles in your soul, as if your soul knows it has come “home.” I have seen this happen to several clients and friends as well. I know it isn’t just some strange anomaly that happened to me. If we are to believe Darwin, we all came from Africa (most likely the Rift Valley), and our soul just seems to settle there, with the comfortable feeling that otherwise only happens when you go home. I mean really home – not just to your house at the end of a long day, but that place you have always considered your home – where you were safe, and nothing could harm you, and you were the most happy and content.
Ann with her sister and mom on safari
But back to my story. After that first safari, I was hooked. I had recently joined into a partnership at Travel Service, here on St Simons Island, and I immediately knew Africa would somehow play a large part in my life and my work. I dove right in, and took advantage of all possibilities to learn about and visit as many safari destinations and camps as possible. Eleven years ago, I lead my first group to Africa on safari. Sadly, that same year my father passed away. After Dad’s death, Mom was ready to go anywhere, anytime. As a matter of fact, even before this, Dad had always said Mom stood at the end of the runway with her bags packed just waiting on one of her children to call to say “Let’s go on a trip!”
Once she and I finished her travel bucket list, she decided she only wanted to go to Africa, at least a couple of times a year. We were both passionate about it. Mom had now gotten to the point that she wanted to spend longer and longer periods of time there. The last trip we had was about 6 weeks, and neither of us was ready to come home. Over the years and on many safaris, we have had the opportunity to work and become close friends with so many amazing people there. One of our dearest friends is Jackson Ole Looseyia. He is one of Conde Nast Traveler’s top 10 legendary guides in Africa, as well as a presenter on Big Cat Live and Big Cat Tales. He worked with Disney on African Cats and continues to be one the most sought after experts on the animals as well as the land and people. On Mom’s last safari, Jackson had told Mom that he was going to build a house in the Masai Mara, and she was welcome to come anytime and stay as long as she liked as his guest. Mom, and her dear friend, Star Wheeler, were so excited about this possibility and already planning the next trip to visit the not yet built house!
Unfortunately, just a few months later, with two safaris already booked for the next summer, Mom
Memories of Mom
passed away unexctedly. While it was exactly the way she would have wanted to go, it was so shocking to all of us and extremely difficult to go through. But as with everything, time marches on, and we put one foot in front of the other. That summer came, and instead of having Mom in the seat next to me on the plane to Africa, I had a vial of her ashes in my suitcase. We had a beautiful celebration of her life on the top of an escarpment, overlooking the Mara, and scattered her ashes in that place she loved so dearly.
In the meantime, our friend Jackson, had not built that house, but instead had bought into a new safari camp in the Masai Mara. After my clients left to head back home, I went with Jackson to see his new camp and spend a little time there. The new camp, called Tangulia Mara Camp, was located directly on the Mara River, which is famous worldwide for the dramatic crossings you see on National Geographic programs showing wildebeest versus crocodile! It was to be the first luxury camp fully owned and operated by local Maasai people. It had a bit of work that needed to be done, but overall, I could see the amazing potential of the place, and was so excited for my friend. On this short visit, Jackson and I had reminisced quite a bit about Mom and how much she loved it there. It was then that I mentioned how much Mom would have loved to have her own home there, and how I wished it was possible for that to happen. After a short pause, Jackson asked if I would like to have my own place in the Mara as Mom’s legacy. I answered, “Of course!” but knew that would never be possible. After looking at me with a big smile, Jackson said, “Why don’t you build a tent here at my new camp.” I need to back up here and explain “safari tents” to those of you that haven’t been. They are basically houses with canvas walls. They have hot and cold running water and flush potties, so there is no “roughing it” needed. The advantage to the canvas exterior means you can hear lions roaring at night and enjoy the fantastic weather year round. I immediately jumped at this opportunity and began working with Jackson to make this dream a reality.
Last summer was a big one for me: I turned 50. As many of us do, I wanted to mark this
Jennifer Jo Waters
monumental birthday with a big trip. For me, there was really no other consideration but going to Africa. I decided to take my four nephews with me, as it had been 10 years since Mom and I took the four of them to Africa together. We were joined by eleven other friends and family members on this epic adventure. One of my friends, Jennifer Jo Waters, joined this big trip. Jennifer and I both grew up on St. Simons Island and have known each other since about the eighth grade. I had planned a safari for her father and her about 10 years ago as well, and like me, they both fell in love with it. She had returned a few times, but had not been back since her father passed away a couple of years ago. Jennifer owns a company called GRITSbuilt. She buys houses in need of renovation, does all of the work herself, and then sells them. She puts a huge amount of herself into each project and they could all be called labors of love.
On this birthday trip, Jackson and I planned the groundbreaking of my tent for November. Everything had been worked out, and as soon as peak season ended in Kenya, they would begin the construction. Jennifer had listened to our discussions, and decided she wanted to help build this dream. She loves Africa, like I do and being able to spend time over there in the place she loves most, doing the work she loves with the people she loves, was just too good of an opportunity to pass up.
Jennifer explains, “When I first set foot in Africa in 2009, I felt an immediate connection with the land, but my connection with the people in Africa truly changed my life. Something started to grow inside me which I could not stop, and my conversations with the Maasai always left me wanting more. I wanted to learn from these people but couldn’t seem to find enough time, and it became a dream of mine to spend real time over there, living with Maasai and hearing their stories. I traveled back to Kenya three times over the next eight years, always searching for ways to get back to the land and the people who had stolen my heart. I wanted to find a way to become more deeply involved in their culture. If only I had the ability to look for the opportunity and the courage to jump!”
She continues, “When I traveled with Ann to Kenya for her 50th birthday celebration, she told me about her plans to build in the Masai Mara. My eyes lit up at the thought of being able to help with her project. Unfortunately, the invitation was not hers to give; it belonged to Jackson Ole Looseyia, who I would meet the next day. My friendship with Jackson was immediate and as I told him about my work, renovating houses, the invitation came, and he offered me the opportunity of a lifetime!”
After Jennifer and Jackson worked out the details, it was decided. Jennifer would come and help build the tent. The one caveat was that she could not bring any of her power tools, as she must learn and build the Maasai way. Fast forward to November. I booked Jennifer’s flight and off she went, carrying way too much weight in her bags and the excitement of both of us for this amazing adventure.
1 of 6
2 of 6
3 of 6
4 of 6
5 of 6
6 of 6
Jennifer says, “I couldn’t wait to board my flight to Kenya and began my work! I spent the following six weeks living with Maasai and learning their way of life. Under the African sun, we worked tirelessly clearing the land, hauling sand from the riverbed, and riding in a trailer behind an old tractor looking for rocks to use on the foundation. With a Maasai warrior guarding us from the animals, we made countless trips down to the riverbed to fetch water in five gallon drums to mix with our concrete. We spent days hand planing the cedar boards that would become the floor of the tent. The long days working in the sun brought beautiful conversations with new friends and old, and I knew that this trip was changing my heart forever. A few months later, I would returned to Tangulia Mara Camp for a few weeks to add some detail work to Ann’s tent. With help from my Maasai family, we would have the whole tent furnished and ready for the big reveal!”
After all was said and done at the camp, it was now time for me to head back to Kenya to see the
finished product. I booked my trip for March, and my sister decided to join me. Jennifer had gone a week ahead of us, so she could put on the final touches and be there for the big reveal. Where n we arrived at the Tangulia camp, we were met with the usual amazing welcome of singing, cool drinks, and big hugs all around. And Jennifer was right there, among the beautifully decorated staff, dressed head to toe in traditional Maasai clothing and jewelry, looking like a proud white Maasai in her local garb. Very quickly, tears spilled down all of our faces as the excitement built. We were escorted to my tent to get our first look. I had chosen the name Mama Nyumbani, which means “Mom’s home,” as a fitting dedication to my sweet, precious mother. She would have absolutely loved every minute of this whole adventure, and I knew she was with us in spirit. Jennifer had hand painted the sign and placed it above the door. It was such a perfect welcome.
Jennifer describes that special time, “It was the final moment of a dream come true for both of us
Ann’s reaction
and Ann and I both cried as she walked through her new tent. A part of my soul was left in the stone walls that we built, and a piece of my heart still lies in the foundation of the tent that is appropriately named Mama Nyumbani. With immeasurable love and timeless friendships, dreams do sometimes become a reality. It certainly did for me, and I am forever grateful to Ann and Jackson for including me in this absolutely phenomenal experience! And of course, I am already planning my next trip back!”
Throughout the tent are such special touches. Everything was hand beaded, which is this amazing skill the local women have perfected of wrapping small colorful beads around every surface possible. The incredible furniture is all hand made by Kinua Dave, who makes everything in camp. He can build, fix, hang, or create just about anything you need. There were pictures of Mom spread throughout, and I felt her there with us. I could just see her with the biggest smile on her face, loving every second of my sister and me enjoying this lovingly built tent. Shaded by trees, the tent overlooks the Mara River. There is a natural spring right in front, where the animals come to drink. I even had lions drinking there early one morning. We spent the next few days settling in to what will be my home away from home for many years to come. If y’all can’t find me, I will be at Mama Nyumbani!
