Cumberland Coast by Peggy Everett
ART | ärt | (noun) The quality, production, expression, or realm, according to aesthetic principles, of what is beautiful, appealing, or of more than ordinary significance.
There are certain invitations that one does not turn down. Being invited to participate in one of Peggy Everett’s plein air classes on Cumberland Island is one of them. Another is getting to stay as a guest in Gogo Ferguson’s house. I have known both of these amazing artists for over ten years and jumped at the chance to spend time with them on Georgia’s largest barrier island. Accessible only by boat, Cumberland Island is approximately 18 miles long and between one-half and three miles wide. The National Park Service operates ferry service to Cumberland from St. Mary’s, stopping at both the Dungeness dock and the Sea Camp dock. Cumberland can also be accessed from Fernandina Beach in Florida, via the vessel, Lucy R. Ferguson, which is operated by the Greyfield Inn. It is a converted Carnegie mansion still owned and managed by members of the Carnegie family, my favorite member being Gogo. In the early 1880’s, Thomas Morrison Carnegie and his wife, Lucy Coleman Carnegie, came to the island and established the family’s presence, which exists to the present day.
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Artist Peggy Everett with one of her students
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Gogo Ferguson
I started my adventure by driving down to Fernandina to meet Peggy and her students, and catching the 9:30 a.m. boat over to the island. While enjoying the 20-minute ride, I met some of my fellow art class attendees as well as visitors who would be staying at the inn. Upon docking at the pier at the inn, we were met by Gogo’s husband, Dave Sayre, who would end up being my tour guide, mentor, and new best friend. We tossed our luggage in the back of a pick-up truck and took the short ride up to Greyfield Inn, where most of the attendees were staying. Peggy informed us that our first class would start the next day at 3:00 p.m. sharp in the downstairs lanai. Having not painted since probably 3rd grade I suddenly felt like I may have made a mistake in coming. It was at this point that I was informed that Gogo had invited me to stay at her house—the same house in which she has entertained such friends as Mikhail Baryshnikov, Hillary Clinton, John F. Kennedy Jr. and just the week before I arrived, Bill Murray!
Dave drove me over to their lovely cottage and as we walked in, I was welcomed with a big hug from Gogo and immediately made to feel right at home. Inside the house wonderful objects covered every surface: shells, huge shark teeth, skulls of birds, horses, sea turtles and other island creatures. In front of the sofa is a beautiful handmade chest of sorts that holds a collection of Indian pottery and arrowheads, sharks teeth and other artifacts that Gogo has found on the island over the years. I looked up and noticed a partially assembled whale skeleton hung from the ceiling. Photos of family and friends from generations are scattered throughout the living room. After a quick lunch, Dave offered to take us around the island so Peggy could scout out plein air locations.
From the ruins of Dungeness on the south end of the island, to the vast beaches, Plum Orchard Mansion mid-island, then to the First African Baptist Church where JFK Jr. was married, Dave pointed our various interesting facts about local history. He explained that Cumberland Island is really made up of two islands connected by a marsh: the island proper and Little Cumberland Island. Little Cumberland is privately owned and not generally open to the public. Historically, Cumberland Island was in private hands, but, in 1971, large areas were deeded to the National Parks Foundation by members or heirs of the Carnegie family. Other lands in private ownership were purchased with funds provided by the Mellon Foundation and Congress, and, in 1972, Cumberland Island was designated a national seashore. A small number of people—principally descendants of property owners—still have houses on the western and northern regions of the island, though only a very few people actually live on the island year-round. Many, however, have sold their property to the National Park Service (NPS), which in turn leases the property back to the former landowners during their lifetime. Eventually, most of the property will revert to the Park Service and become part of the national seashore; however, some properties, including the Greyfield Inn, remain in fee simple ownership by descendants of the Carnegies, with no reversion agreements with the NPS. After sightseeing and relaxing on the front porch swing, we were treated to a wonderful dinner of fresh caught shrimp and clams and fresh corn and vegetables from the inn’s garden.
Dungeness ruins
Travel + Leisure named Greyfield Inn one of the Top 10 Most Romantic US Hotels. Once described as a “Tara-by-the-Sea,” the inn is decorated throughout with family heirlooms and antiques, giving each room a distinctive character and evoking the country elegance of a bygone era. The daily tariff is a “package” rate that includes your guest room, Southern breakfast, picnic lunch, and gourmet dinner featuring Georgia coast regional specialties. The many activities on the island include hiking, wildlife viewing, photography, swimming, bird watching, beach combing, biking and of course most of all, relaxing.
Greyfield Inn
I woke up early Tuesday morning, ate breakfast and started a solo hike down the tree-covered road, toward the beach. Of course, if you go to Cumberland you are going to see horses. The horses that roam free on Cumberland are feral, meaning that their ancestors were once domesticated. A popular myth holds that they were originally brought to the island by Spanish Conquistadors in the 16th century, and they remain one of the most sought-after sights by visitors.
Feral horses on Cumberland
After a mile or so, I reached the beach, and for as far as the eye could see in either direction, I was the only person around. Walking south, I came across the tracks of a loggerhead sea turtle that had just laid her eggs. I could see the wooden stick the naturalists had placed to mark the nest. As I continued down the beach, I counted 17 sea turtle nests in a short distance. With many miles of unpopulated beach, I can only imagine how many sea turtle nests Cumberland has each year. Later, I found out there were 583 nests last year.
Once back at Gogo’s, I was able to tour her workshop next to the house. Gogo has been creating amazing jewelry designs inspired by nature, specifically the surroundings of her family’s home on Cumberland, for more than 30 years. She draws inspiration from all forms of nature, including raccoon and rattlesnake bones, armadillo shells, barnacles and even seaweed. She creates wearable works of art both in their found forms and cast in gold and silver. Gogo is considered one of America’s most remarkable jewelry designers. Her designs can be found in the private collections of noted political figures, celebrities, and dignitaries around the world.
Gogo's workshop
Guests at the Greyfield Inn make the short walk over to Gogo’s workshop and are rewarded with their choice of one of these treasures of wearable artwork. As 3:00 p.m. neared, I felt a nervous pang. It was time for class! Fortunately, I was only doing the two-hour intro class and not the three-day plein air course. I have always been amazed at how Peggy can create these wonderful pieces of art. I’m even fortunate enough to own two pieces of her work. But just because she can paint, doesn’t mean I can paint!
Cumberland Plein Air Class (Day 1)
I looked around the room at the other “students” and suddenly felt like the guy who sits down at a poker table and looks around to see who the ‘patsy” is. If you don’t know who the “patsy” is, YOU are the “patsy!” There were two professional artists, eight very talented amateur artists, two beginners, and ME. I did okay at first. I was able to squeeze out the paint from the tube. But once we started mixing colors, it got real. Peggy guided us for the next two hours and, by the time cocktail hour arrived, I had completed my first painting that wasn’t a paint-by-numbers clown picture. As I looked at the works of the other students, I noticed the sense of camaraderie that had developed. The class had been much more fun than I could have imagined and I felt a sense of accomplishment.
We celebrated with viewing and a sit-down dinner at the inn. Peggy had placed all of our works at the end of the long table and the students walked around to admire the finished works. As more and more of my fellow artists kept coming up to me and commenting on how amazing my painting was, I knew something was up. It turned out that Peggy had “touched up” my painting just a tad. Now if I can just get her to sign the bottom of it, I’ll have three pieces of her work!
My masterpiece à la Peggy
The art class went on for two more days, but I had to catch the boat early the next morning to get back to the grind of civilization. As I rode the 8:15 a.m. ferry back to Fernandina with a NYC couple who had just celebrated an anniversary, we compared notes on how amazing the Cumberland experience is.
While I may not have the artistic talents of my friends Peggy and Gogo, I was able to experience Cumberland through their eyes. I’d say that makes me a pretty good artist!
You can find Gogo’s jewelry at her store on St. Simons Island at 217 Redfern Village or purchase online at gogojewelry.com. Peggy Everett’s art can be found at Planters Exchange, 104 Redfern Village, or visit her website at peggyeverett.com.
