Nancy Butler and her daughter, Kelly Valentine, recently answered Britain’s call and visited London to see the sights and experience the flavors. Downton Abbey fans, they also took an excursion to Highclere Castle, where the popular British period drama chronicling the lives, loves, and losses of the fictional Crawley family household was filmed. Nancy first shares her impressions and an overview of the trip with us, then Kelly delves a little deeper into explaining the culinary experience.
Little girl, little girl where have you been?
Gathering roses to give to the Queen.
Little girl, little girl what gave she you
She gave me a diamond as big as my shoe.
Having grown up with English nursery rhymes like “Little Girl,” I was excited to have recently found myself immersed in an actual royal experience. While visiting London, I was fortunate to view firsthand the traditional parade as the queen traveled from Buckingham Palace to Parliament for the opening session. The queen was adorned in her full regalia as she made the trip in her horse-drawn carriage. Through the words and lyrics of these nursery rhymes, we are reminded of British history and heritage. The Crown Jewels of England contain two of the most famous diamonds in the world. One of these is the Kohinoor diamond (108.3) carats), which is set in the special crown made in 1937 for the coronation of Elizabeth (the Queen Mother). With treasures like this, it is no wonder, a carriage designed to carry only her Royal Crown and Scepter, follows the Queen’s carriage. Many armed soldiers were stationed along the route of this procession featuring magnificent horses and splendidly dressed riders. The Royal Band was in attendance adding the finishing touches to all the pomp and circumstance. We were standing so close to the parade that I could see the Queen and Prince Philip. I’m sure her wave was directed right at me, just like the little girl in the nursery rhyme.
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How does one top the royal experience of our first full day in London? With a trip to Highclere Castle to see the estate where Downton Abbey was filmed. Downton Abbey, which documents the dramas and scandals of the fictional Crawley family and their servants in the days leading up to and after the first World War, first aired in the United Kingdom in 2010 but by the third series it had become one of the most watched TV dramas worldwide. Its global audience is about 120 million people…and I am one of them.
Our day-long tour led us to Oxfordshire, where most of the filming of Downton Abbey took place. Our first stop was Highclere Castle, one of the best-known filming locations. We were allowed to step inside the Castle to explore each of its staterooms. We saw the famous dining room where many wonderful scenes were filmed, as well as bedrooms of the leading characters. Leaving the castle, we proceeded to walk around the lavish estate grounds that surround it. Our tour continued exploring further areas of the impressive filming sites such as Bampton in the Cotswold. This is a quintessential English village that was used extensively as Downton village throughout the entire series. At the conclusion of this tour we were treated to a 10-minute film of behind-the-scene shots of Downton Abbey that are not available to the public. It was fascinating and a lovely ending for our wonderful experience.
Westminster Abbey, the Houses of Parliament, Buckingham Palace and Trafalgar Square, some of London’s most famous landmarks, were among our favorites to explore. Other traditions that topped our list of things to do: high tea and English pubs.
The Brits love their tea! More than 163 million cups of tea are consumed every day in Britain and afternoon tea is still observed daily, so we observed that wonderful institution and followed the tradition while we were there. We also learned that British pubs are as much about socializing as they are about drinking. One of the most mysterious aspects of pub behavior for many first timers is how to actually order and get served. Pubs don’t have table service, as a rule, and at busy times, getting the attention of the bar staff can seem virtually impossible. Don’t worry though, because by some mysterious trick they do see you (especially if you’re two American women in a mostly male pub on Saturday afternoon). Here’s how to ensure you get service with a smile: be patient; know what you want and ask for it; be nice to bar staff, and don’t hog space at the bar.
London, the political, financial and artistic capital of Britain, is hard to beat. Be sure to include afternoon tea and a visit to a pub for the quintessential London experience if and when you visit. Everything you could ever want is there, it is up to you to take it and enjoy it.
Now that we know what our lovely ladies did on their British adventures, let’s hear more about the local cuisine from Kelly.
A dining experience in London can be surprisingly delightful or a little underwhelming, perhaps predictable. However, for the most part, our London culinary experience was exceptionally delicious. Armed with notes regarding the very necessary sights to see, and a day excursion to Highclere Castle, dining was primarily to provide sustenance during our busy schedule; however, we were in for some lovely surprises.
We began with the ultimate British Afternoon Tea, which we continued daily during our stay. Our favorite “tea party” was at the Orangery Restaurant at Kensington Palace. Set in a garden pavilion built for Queen Anne in 1704, and the only royal palace in London where you can enjoy afternoon tea, we certainly felt like royalty! The cucumber and fresh mint sandwiches, orange scented and currant scones served with Cornish clotted cream, lemon curd, and English strawberry jam were perfect companions to tea served on royal china with sugar and cream.
How did this wonderful institution begin? The Duchess of Bedford, Anna Maria Stanhope, one of Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting suffered from a “sinking feeling” at about 4:00 in the afternoon. At the time, it was usual for people to take only 2 meals a day (breakfast and dinner at around 8:00 p.m. At first, the Duchess had her servants sneak her a pot of tea and a few breads, but soon began inviting friends to join her at 5:00 p.m. in her rooms at Belvoir Castle. Small cakes, bread and butter sandwiches, assorted sweets, and tea were served. The practice proved so popular that the Duchess continued it when she returned to London and high tea was quickly picked up by other social hostesses respectable enough to move it into the drawing room. Today, afternoon tea is still available from about 2:00 or 3:00 p.m.
Our morning breakfast, which we ate overlooking Big Ben each day, had some decidedly interesting, yet maybe typical, English fare. While I went for the buffet of cold assorted fruits and yogurt, there was a “hot” buffet full of sausages, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes, beans (like baked beans), potatoes, and black pudding. Black pudding, recently hailed as a “superfood” (really?) is actually a type of blood sausage, loaded with protein, potassium, calcium, and magnesium, as well as being practically carb free; however, it did not make it to my plate. My traveling companion, however, could not resist a small taste!
The National Portrait Gallery near Trafalgar Square was the location of two of our favorite culinary delights. Upon the recommendation of a friend, we followed the signs to the Cafe prior to our museum tour. A little like a cafeteria, and really in the basement, we had a fabulous soup and a glass of delicious wine. Upon the completion of our tour, we happened upon the third floor signage for the Portrait Restaurant, and, as we came through the door, we saw the magnificent view of the city of London and realized that this is where we were intended to eat! The breathtaking view goes from Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square down Whitehall to the Houses of Parliament, Big Ben and, of course, the London Eye. We promptly made reservations for our last night in London and it certainly did not disappoint. The food, which included buffalo mozzarella, roast cod fillet, and butternut squash, was amazing, and the views as the lights came on in the city were spectacular! A very special night to end a very special trip!
A true highlight was the Granadier pub. After a morning wandering through the “V and A” museum (the Victoria and Albert to those of us who are not hip), we popped in to a very, very crowded Harrod’s and promptly popped right back out. Our journey on foot continued to the tiny former officers’ mess with grenadier themed decorations and a wonderful bar. Bellying up to order, I requested fish and chips (of course) and was asked, in an accent that was difficult to discern, whether I wanted mushy peas? Excuse me? But of course I want them (whatever they are). But also I want a couple of pints of ale! The fish and chips were so yummy, and, yes, I truly loved my mushy peas! But then again, I really like split pea soup, too.
We had only one exceptionally bad culinary event. With theatre tickets to Les Miserables, it was actually quite appropriate. We were dropped off by our Black Cab driver to the “restaurant,” which was a bar loudly playing “Help!” by The Beatles. After a confusing few moments, we located the restaurant at the back of the bar and ordered quickly to make the play. The appetizers made us giggle, and the main course, a lonely (maybe hangar) steak on a plate, was difficult to cut much less chew! The waitress had us laughing uncontrollably when she asked, “What’s going on here?” as she noticed our uneaten food. We simply said we were in a hurry and really not that hungry!
Our Downton Abbey day, while not centering around food per say, was such a highlight and we did eat at the castle. We were not served in the grand dining room where such wonderful scenes were portrayed, nor did we get to dress in the wonderful clothes for a grand dining experience. However, the “Coronation Chicken” sandwich served in the tent decorated with flowers hand-picked and set out by Lady Carnarvon, the current lady of the house and wife of George Herbert, 8th Earl of Carnarvon, was truly delicious! The high tea at the Cowshed Cafe at Cogges farm, where Lady Edith’s love child, Marigold, was secretly raised, deliciously sustained us for our trip back to London.
Back home in the states, I may just have to incorporate high tea in my afternoons, when I feel that “sinking feeling” around 3 or 4 o’clock. But who is going to make those delicious scones?
