On Safari
Recently our publisher’s mother, Nancy Butler; sister, Kelly Valentine; Cathy Miller, and Kathy Cathey made the long trek to Africa for a wildlife safari. Here’s their story of the taste of that savanna lifestyle that will last them all a lifetime.
The People & Amenities
By Cathy Miller
Kathy and I did not know Nancy and Kelly before we met at the airport to begin our journey. We finally arrived at the Mayfair Hotel at 3:00 a.m. where our last two traveling companions, Ann, who is always ready to share all her knowledge of Africa, and her lovely, energetic mother, Emily, were there to greet us. The next morning we were off to the Masai Mara for safari.
Our first breakfast in the Mara was served under this candelabra tree on a ridge overlooking the vast beauty of the land we would be exploring. That morning we seemed to be the only people on the earth as we drove through the endless grassy plains, when we spotted a single jeep under a lone tree in the distance. As we approached, I could see that there was a table, a line of six chairs set up to admire the mountain-backed valley view, and the two Masai warriors that would become another of our favorite sightings after a long drive. The checkered tablecloth was covered with a feast. Warm mini quiches, muffins, home baked bread and fresh marmalades and jelly, fruit, yogurt, cereal, coffee, tea, juice. This was the first of many beautiful picnics that could each have been a cover photo for Elegant Island Living.
We enjoyed lunch under the shade trees at the tent camp or lunch cooked over a fire on the banks of a river filled with hippos, and candlelight dinners served in the dining tent. A beautiful platter of grilled chops and ribs, a spinach feta pasta salad, fresh vegetables and salads, homemade passion fruit ice cream, or warm pears in caramel sauce might welcome us back from a ride. Since I have been home, I often recreate my favorite dish, which was large chunks of fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, and feta with black olives. It now has been re-named the “African salad.”
I loved the tent camp “bucket showers” at night and the coffee tray in the early morning. Each morning before we began our safari ride, we were awakened with a very soft “Hello, hello, hello,” and a tray holding French press coffee, cozy covered tea pot, warm milk, and ginger cookies.
On our first day of lunch under the trees on the Mara I felt this overwhelming sense of calm and happiness. This stayed with me weeks after the trip and even now I can still feel a little of this Kenyan happiness. This is really what I carried home from the trip. Some of that calmness that you see in the animals: the lions, as they sit so still and listen and watch for their prey or their enemies, the elephants as they slowly walk with their family group, the way the lions caress their young as they play in the grass, or the way a mother elephant rubs her trunk on her calf; this stayed with me. The vast open vistas stayed with me. I treasure this. And I treasure my fellow travelers in the photo who made me laugh so much and added such great memories to the amazing trip. Since my trip, my husband sometime wakes me with a soft “Hello, hello, hello,” and a cup of coffee. This helps, but I still wish I was in Kenya today with five wonderful women on an amazing safari adventure.
The Warriors
By Nancy Butler
As evening merges into the blackness of the night in the African bush, a Masai Warrior in brightly colored native attire reaches out to escort me back to my tent. I find myself holding tightly to his hand knowing I was totally dependent upon him for my safety. I notice he is armed but only with a bow and arrows. I am only slightly reassured.
I never have considered myself very adventurous but there is something about Africa that pushes my boundaries. I soon grew accustomed to safari life, with its cool morning game rides, its sultry afternoon rides lazing by water holes anticipating any thirsty animals, and my favorite time of day, the sundowners. Our guides could build a fire from scratch out in the bush and then produce lovely gin & tonics as we enjoyed one of those famous African sunsets.
Each game ride, Jackson Looseyia, our award-winning guide, and his tracker, Patinga, assisted all six ladies aboard the open Range Rover, covering each with colorful blankets against early morning breezes. They could always, ever so discreetly, find a secure place out in the bush to make our necessary “rest stops.” We never felt anxious, as we knew they were walking around the area protecting us from any possible surprise wild intruders. Each time we returned to camp, the staff met us with moist eucalyptus-scented towels and fresh juice, needed hydrating essentials.
On special evenings, as we dined in an open-air tent, we were entertained by the staff dressed in full native attire, dancing and singing accompanied by the many surrounding wild animal sounds. At night we were lulled to sleep with a hot water bottle tucked into our turned down bed that ensured sweet African dreams.
Learning about life and death in the bush, the Masai Mara must be like the landscapes of yesterday. Rolling grasslands, sparse thorn trees and numerous wild animals as far as the eye can see.
Through the Masai Safari Camp I got to experience the bush. I got to see it, hear it, smell it and to love it.
The Animals
By Kelly Valentine
Our small plane touched down on a dirt runway and suddenly we were part of something magical. Greeted warmly by our Masai warrior guides, we were immediately immersed in the African bush. As we bounced along in our soon-to-be beloved jeep, tail wagging “Tommies” stared at us and jaunty, chubby warthogs turned and ran on their short, funny legs, tails straight up in the air. Animals were everywhere on the wide-open grassland. Africa, as we were about to discover, is an absolute Eden of animals. We seemed to come upon scene after scene of amazing activity and viewing, each moment more wondrous than the one before.
Our first evening encounter was a beautiful leopard tucked high in a tree. Carefully surveying the surrounding area for danger, he was soon on alert when a group of lions arrived on the scene. We rode at dawn the next morning, joining a beautiful giraffe family having their breakfast in the warm morning sun then moving slowly away into the morning light. A scene of giraffes and zebras crossing a dry creek was a colorful display of animal interaction and harmony.
We were amazed at the number of wildebeests and treated to many vistas of the Great Migration, whether moving slowly in a great long line stretching across the horizon, or gathering by the thousands on the banks of the Mara River agonizing over the decision to cross or not to cross. We were thrilled with a large crossing over the Mara River, the wildebeests wildly jumping in and over each other to reach the safety of the other side of the crocodile infested waters. The vultures were circling and waiting ominously all over an Acacia tree for any who straggled behind, or were hurt or separated during the crossing.
The lions in the Masai Mara were absolutely stunning. They were so majestic in their demeanor, yet surprisingly tender with their lionesses and cubs. We had several early morning encounters with beautiful males purposefully walking across meadows, their lovely manes full and colorful, blowing in the morning breeze. We were touched by the sweetness in the scene of a male lion reuniting with his lioness and their young cubs after a failed attempt at a kill. We were also witness to the courting and mating behaviors of a particular lion couple. On two occasions we were treated to a wonderful time watching a lioness interacting with her baby cubs, one set merely weeks old.
One of our biggest thrills was a cheetah kill. He was a beautiful—and very hungry—creature whose earlier success was shattered when a group of lions took his kill. Patiently he stalked, awaiting the moment when a young wildebeest caught his eye, then he sprang into a blur of motion, sprinting across the grassland to his prey. We were fascinated by his speed and surgeon-like precision in the kill, as he periodically checked the surroundings for possible danger.
The elephants, moving slowly across the land, were impressive and, at times, playful. Their intelligence and keen awareness of our presence was evident in their eyes. We were solidly amid a family group moving quietly through a wooded area. The silence of the careful, slow progression of these great creatures created an atmosphere of true reverence.
I still marvel at the experience of being in the African bush. The wide expanse of land teaming with life, the warmth of the Kenyan guides who are now considered dear friends, the sunrises and red, red sunsets, and the overall feeling of peace that washed over me while there all seem to stay with me each time I reflect on our visit.
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The Memories
By Kathy Cathey
The Masai Mara is unlike any place I have ever visited and must be experienced firsthand. Our pictures or stories can never capture the true essence of life there.
It is a contradiction of life, as humans are the ones on the inside viewing the life outside, as in a reverse zoo. We were held to the confines of our jeeps or living spaces. The animals allow us to view them as long as we stay within the boundaries they set for us.
One of the most magical moments for me was on our first night on the Mara. As we were being escorted back to our tents by our ever watchful and wonderful Masai warrior, Jackson, I gazed up at a star-filled sky over the field of zebra and wildebeest. I asked him if we could see the Southern Cross. This Masai warrior proceeded to produce a laser pointer and gave us a never to be forgotten astronomy lesson!
I had the privilege of travelling with a wonderful group of ladies and Masai guides. The group was always excited with what we saw and wanted to learn more. It was this group that made Kenya a place I will always remember with a smile and grateful heart.
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